Posted Sat Sep 15, 2012 9:56PM
Im looking for some advice on this landscape photo. The main thing I'd like to know is how to boost the blue sky and green trees to a "stockish" standard without wrecking the image too much?
Any other feedback is welcome too!
Shot with a 7d, 18-55 2.8 at 7.1. I don't recall the shutter speed but it was av priority. Shot in RAW and processed in Lightroom.
(Edited on 2012-09-15 22:03:39 by BrendanWebster)
(Edited on 2012-09-17 05:32:08 by kelvinjay)
Posted Sun Sep 16, 2012 1:02AM
Because it is a distance photo it altogether lacks contrast. I think your best starting point will be to use Photoshop to introduce an S-curve into the (original) image data. Provided your photo uses an RGB colour space, this will both increase contrast AND boost colour saturation.
Posted Sun Sep 16, 2012 1:48AM
Better to get it correct in camera (early start for landscapes,using filters,lots of patience, keeping an eye on the conditions for the right opportunity) than big edits in software.
Posted Sun Sep 16, 2012 2:24AM
OP-It is quite a nice scene but by only uploading a thumbnail and not full size other contributors cannot manipulate it and show you a better version.
I use the Canon DPP software on the RAW file first then taking the TIFF file into Adobe.
NB your shutter speed was 1/500.It's in the exif data attached to the photograph
Posted Sun Sep 16, 2012 7:13AM
As mentioned by Shank_ali it's next to impossible to play with such a small file but a quick curve, brightening, contrast and sat boost does this. With the large file it will be much easier to see what the quality of the file is and how far it can be played with without causing artifacts.
Posted Sun Sep 16, 2012 7:55AM
It's hard to see what is possible from such a tiny shot. As mentioned in the sticky thread at the top of this forum, we need to see the full size file to offer any real help. For example, I spent 2 minutes playing in Lightroom and came up with this significantly processed version. Would that work on the full size file? There's no way for us to tell. Those changes may destroy the image quality.
One thing I would say is that such images are rarely processed using global adjustments alone. Often, they will require specific exposure, clarity, de-noising, colour, highlight recovery etc to be painted on specific areas only.
A lot depends on just how true to life you want your image to be. Everyone has their own approach. Some people here have a belief that their photos should try to capture the world in the badly lit way that they happened to capture it. Others want to sell images and so therefore make greater efforts to give nature a helping hand. We all have to decide where to draw the line, but I believe you could probably create an image with more commercial appeal than your original if you spend a bit more time on it.
(Edited on 2012-09-16 08:05:29 by kelvinjay)
Posted Sun Sep 16, 2012 5:25PM
/Thanks for all the feedback!
Here is the dropbox link to the file so that it can be viewed at 100%:
Raw - https://dl.dropbox.com/u/24045941/IMG_1463.CR2
JPEG - https://dl.dropbox.com/u/24045941/IMG_1463.jpg
Also, heres the original shot with no adjustments :
(Edited on 2012-09-16 17:30:07 by BrendanWebster)
(Edited on 2012-09-16 17:31:21 by BrendanWebster)
(Edited on 2012-09-16 17:33:33 by BrendanWebster)
Posted Sun Sep 16, 2012 7:00PM
Well I've had a try with the full raw, and played around but I find the photo is just too underexposed, taken at the wrong time of day, and I can't clear the haze without creating artifacting or darkening the shadows too much. It can be improved but to meet I stock standards it would take more work in photo shop masking then I would want to spend on it and then I don't think it's sharp enough across the frame to get in. I think I would reshoot earlier or later in the day. I feel it needed a longer exposure to get the detail across all the full distance of the shot but being it's mid day sun that may have over exposed your sky and areas of your mountains.
Posted Sun Sep 16, 2012 7:21PM
After getting it a good as you can get in Raw processing you can bring it into photoshop then LAB mode, work on it there then back into RGB. Can really boost those types of colours and push them more so than in RGB before creating artifacts.
You can also work in Raw getting say the foreground how you want it then open to photoshop. Then work on the raw again for background and open to photoshop, mask to keep parts you want.
If reshooting use norrower aperture, maybe f/16..., it helps with 'contrast' and also greater depth of feild.
Posted Mon Sep 17, 2012 8:12PM
Thanks for the help everyone!