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Wat To Phae in the small village of Khun Yuam in Mae Hong Son was definitely one of the highlights of our long trip through the North. The temple offers one of the most beautiful country temples I had seen, sitting next to the river on one side and the rice fields on the other side. A beautiful Mon-style pagoda and a Burmese-style Viharn are the main attraction, though there is so much more detail hidden, like the 1.65 by 3.8 metres long "ruby curtain" which is a masterpiece of Burmese art with perl beads and 164 ruby stones. This is an ancient temple which was built hundreds of years ago by Lawa people, an ethnic minority in the Suwannaphum area (an ancient kingdom of Chinese and Indian influence)